February 21, 2004
Georgetown-Like no Place on Earth

While we await the arrival of the windlass, I am familiarizing myself with the Georgetown area.   Geographically, this is truly a cruisers paradise.  Whether you want to be near the center of commerce or more primitive near the out islands, the space created between the chain of outlying cays to the northeast and the island of Great Exuma itself offers cruisers a huge variety of anchorages.  These outer Cays, particularly Stocking Island with its sandy beaches, offer cruisers lovely locales to play and party within easy swim or dinghy distance from their anchorage in 5-12 feet of water.

Businesses, such as the Peace and Plenty Hotel and the Chat & Chill, offer concessions for food and drink on these out islands.  The Peace and Plenty has created a nature trail in the shadow of the hilltop monument on Stocking Island that leads hikers to the ocean side of the island.  There are also east and west trails whose sandy paths lead hikers through natural scrub and unique vistas of the hilly terrain.  Two of the "peaks"; along the trail offer gazebos benches that make for lovely and comfortable viewing of Exuma Sound.

Volleyball Beach on Stocking Island seems to be the headquarters for cruisers here and has volleyball nets, tree swings, picnic tables and other amenities for play and recreation.  It also has bulletin boards for communicating events of interest for cruisers including information on the Annual Cruising Regatta. 

So many boats are anchored here (over 320 by the third week in February and growing daily) that a "community"; has been established, complete with daily news channel (VHF 68 at 0810) weather report, commercial announcements, activities announcements, swap & help requests, good wishes, thank you's, and thoughts for the day.   On Sunday, there was a "beach church";, water color group, a call for amateur musicians to get together for a jam session, HAM radio classes, card & domino games, a Volleyball Tournament, special Pig Day at the Chat & Chill, and generally, something for everyone.   It's like a whole world, a whole community run by able and willing volunteers.   Anyone with a need can just get on the radio during the morning broadcast and ask their fellow cruisers for help.  Generally, it seems people's needs are taken care of freely by other cruisers in the spirit of cooperation and camaraderie.  It is really refreshing, and idyllic.

The town of Georgetown is surprisingly small and I'm sure the population of cruisers outnumber the local citizens greatly.  Where Stocking Island is the center of fun & play, Georgetown is the center of commerce.   The crush of dinghies tied to the floating dock at any given time in town is clear indication of the impact cruisers must have on the economy of this area.   The availability of the dinghy dock, its free water spigot, dumpsters for trash, and BANK may demonstrate the town's appreciation of the cruising visitor.  Prices are high here, awfully high.  You will pay three or four times the cost of any item here compared with the States.  I had 3 loads of wash done and it cost $30.00.  Internet prices are fifty cents PER MINUTE.  Dining out is expensive and not a particularly good value in terms of quality or quantity of food, but considering the availability of ANYTHING here, appreciated nonetheless.

In walking through town, you get a sense of the closeness of the community, but I've felt this way in every town that I've visited so far in the Exumas.  Even in the dark of night, I had no fear walking back to the dinghy dock.  Children are in the bars and restaurants, at the town basketball game after 9:00 at night, and waving to you from the open doors of their small homes.  I went to Eddie's Edgewater Grill last night to hear their "Rake & Scrape"; band.  It was fun to see someone play a metal-toothed saw with a screwdriver while bending the saw to make music; a stick with a string on it sounding like a bass fiddle, and various types of pig skin-looking drums.  Added to that was a couple of guitars, a singer and a dancing maracas shaker and there was music that put a smile on everyone's face.  Everyone's feet were moving, even when the singer tried to sing "Wind Beneath My Wings"; Rake & Scrape style.